Sunday, June 24, 2012

Sweet Summertime: Protection Tips for the Warm Weather

In my opinion, summer is the best season of the year...but it can also be a very dangerous one for our hair. Excessive chlorine and sun exposure can be very damaging to our hair and we often don't even think about protecting our hair from it. However, it is crucial that we care for our hair during the time when we are most exposed. Here are some tips for keeping your hair safe during summer!

Sun Damage: 
When protecting your hair from the sun, remember that there are two types of rays which are harmful to our hair. 1. Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays can penetrate deep into the cortex, affecting the strength and elasticity of your hair. UVA rays can distort the pigmentation of your hair, altering your hair's natural color. In addition UVA rays can burn the hair cuticles causing hair to become brittle and dry. 2. UVB rays also penetrate the cortex, causing dry hair. 

How Sunscreen Can Protect Your Hair
Many sunscreens contain ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which protecting the hair by reflecting the sun rather than absorbing it.Other ingredients such as Avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate absorb ultraviolet light and prevent it from reaching your hair. In order to determine how long a sunscreen will protect you, use this SPF calculator

What to protect your hair with:

Chlorine Damage:
What I look forward to most during the summer is swimming. When I was little I would swim and swim and swim and swim until I was sure that fins would grow out of my back! Even though I love to swim, I have had first hand experience with hair damage as a result of exposure to chlorine (ex: my texturized hair falling out :( ).  I know that a lot of naturals wouldn't dare dip their precious fro under water. But what the heck, Y.O.L.O. right? If you dare to be different like me, here are some quick tips for protecting your hair from the chlorine:
1.  Soak your hair in non-chlorinated water before hopping into the pool. Your hair will absorb less chlorine if it has already absorbed the non-chlorinated water. 
2. Even taking care of your hair before the pool will not prevent ALL chlorine damage. So afterwards make sure to hop in the shower and wash any chlorine out with a sulfate free shampoo. Then follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore any lost moisture.

My Beach Hair Routine:
My Hair After I Co-washed & took out the braids

Rocking the Twist-Out at Tybee Island

Front view of my hair after
washing & retwisting

Side view of my hair after washing & retwisting

So last weekend I went to Beaufort SC & this weekend a group of my friends and I went to Tybee Island. Whenever I hit the beach I put my hair up into twists/braids and leave it in while I'm swimming. When I get back to the hotel I co-wash (conditioner wash) my hair while it's still in the twists/braids & take it out before I go to dinner! If I'm going to the beach again the next day, I'll put five to six mini twists/braids on the crown of my head for definition & 5 to 6 chunky braids in the back. BTW beach hair= the best hair. Something about the perfect amount of humidity gives the hair the right amount of Va-Va-Voooooooom.

Keep it natural,

Jackie :)

Thursday, June 21, 2012

To twist or not to twist

Hey Naturals,

Rocking the twists
 at the age of 5! 
I've always been a big fan of braid outs. Braid outs stretch my hair while also giving my fro a different sort of definition. However, there are so many naturalistas that swear by twist outs and love what they do to their hair. So for the past two weeks I have been testing out my own twist outs and let me tell ya all about what I discovered. To begin with I should probably explain why I've always strayed away from twist outs. The very first time that I tried a twist out I didn't like the way that my hair seemed to slip out of the twists. It was almost as if my hair was too soft to handle them. But I knew that this wasn't so because back in the day when Momma Lynn was in charge of my hair I rocked the twists on a daily basis...and I was the cutest kid in kindergarten. haha! I mean check me out! haha. Anywho, after several failed attempts at a successful twist out, I completely gave up hope of rocking the twist out that so many naturals do.

After about a year of hopelessness, I decided to try the twist out once again. Quite frankly, I'm sick of detangling this fro, but I'm a broke college student that does not want to/can't afford $300 microbraids. In addition, my go to look is a gelled up sleek bun. I use ecostyler gel & smooth the hair back with a soft bristled brush, but this daily routine can be very damaging to your hair. My hair is beginning to thin around my crown. I also sleep with my hair in a pineapple. The tension from the rubber bands was causing the hair on the side that I sleep on to thin out as well. What really made me decide to try the twist out again was this article that I read on curlynikki.com (I'm currently going through an obsession with her/her blog). While reading over Curly Nikki's hair care routine, I learned that she keeps her hair in twists the majority of the time and only takes it out once a week for "when she wants to get cute."

I decided to try out her routine for myself. I  did my first twist out this past weekend.. This worked out perfectly because we went to the beach on Saturday. I don't like leaving my fro loose when I hit the beach. When I saturate my hair in water and leave it loose without detangling, my hair curls on top of curls and my hair is left in a matted mess. I twisted my hair on Friday night. On Saturday, I left my hair in twists and washed it on that night. Then I removed the twists and  stretched the roots with a blow dryer for church on Sunday. What I found was perfect definition at the crown of my head. I call this my "problem area" because that is where my hair is the straightest (3b). It makes a loose curl pattern when wet, but dries straight. When I was first experimenting with my hair in it's natural state, I thought that this was the result of excessive heat damage, but I later learned that the straight hair was just my natural texture. The center of my head has the curliest hair(3c), while the back is kinkier mix of 3c/4a hair. (For a further explanation of hair types, click here.) I found that the twist out added extra definition to that 3b section of hair by stretching the hair, but keeping it coiled (rather than solely stretching it like a braid-out would do).

I was so happy with the results that I decided to retwist my hair and I'm leaving them in for the week. Right now I have about 12 twists in. Before twisting I misted my hair with a water/conditioner mist, rubbed some Giovanni Direct Leave-in on the hair, and then sealed with coconut oil. I will take them out on Saturday after I go to the beach again :) For now I pull them up into a bun...similar to how I was wearing my hair before minus the gel and tight hair bands. I'm finding that my roots kink up so quickly in the twists though. I've found that they don't stay nearly as neat as when I braid my hair. I want to style them but they look so fuzzy that I fear you won't be able to see the style. haha! So if you know any tips about how to keep them neat, please add a comment in the box below! I'm desperate!

Last thing, I promise! No more ridiculously long posts after this! Last summer my goal was to go the duration of the summer without flat ironing my hair & I ended up going 6 months completely natural. I decided that leaving my hair in twists is going to be my mission for Summer 2012. Wish me luck! What are your natural goals for Summer '12?


Keep it Natural,


Jackie

Monday, June 11, 2012

A Message to a Friend

Hey Naturals,


So today a friend of mine posted the following on my wall on facebook:


I was wondering if you could talk about the actual price ($$) of going natural. I have not had a relaxer since March of last year and I still have not worn my afro out because I do not know what it is going to do and I do not understand all of the steps that go into maintaining it. Plus I'm scared that i will look crazy cause my hair isn't as long as I want it to be yet. It has taken me 2 years to find the right regimen for my weave and how to best maintain it. I do not want to spend that long trying to find what works best for my natural hair and I would hate to damage it more and risk having to start all the way over again.  I'm also debating if I actually want to wear my natural hair out opposed to sew-ins because I spend a crap ton of money ($2-400) on a sew in that will only last for 2 months or so. And Im never sure if my real hair is getting damaged in the process because I cant actually moisturize my hair the way it should be without the weave looking greasy.


 I will admit that I was a little overwhelmed because I didn't know exactly how to address her questions. I could see that she was obviously frustrated with her hair & I wasn't sure if I could find the right words to calm her fears. But when I sat in front of my laptop, the answers seemed to just come easily. I hope that some of y'all will find my response useful as well & if you feel as if you can add to my response or even answer better, please comment below! 


My response: 
             This is definitely a tough bunch of questions. Let me start off by saying that I've never had a relaxer so to say. When I was in the third grade I had a texturizer (a weaker version of a perm). In fact the texturizer made my hair even harder to manage than before. It left my hair in 983245987345 more textures than I already had. I mean I had big sections that were chemically dead straight and other sections that were kinky & curly. To make matters worse, I swam EVERY day in a chlorinated pool. As a 7/8 year old, I knew nothing about the damaging effects of combining chlorine with the sodium hydroxide in a relaxer. Because all my white friends could swim in the pool without a swim cap, I thought I was "invincible" and could do the same. Well to make a long story short, in less than two years my hair went from being several inches above my rear end to an inch below my ear lobe. Needless to say it was not a good look. 
                  As far as your sew-ins are concerned, I think that it's smart that you're leaving your hair in sew-ins while you are growing out your hair. I grew my hair back in a way similar to how you're doing it. I kept my hair in micro braids from the time I was in fourth grade to the time that I was in 9th grade. Boy did it make a difference! My hair grew back faster, longer and stronger. Then halfway through the 9th grade I was introduced to the flat iron & the damage, although not as severe, returned. You will find that your hair will grow much faster in a sew-in because you are not manipulating it on a daily basis. & don't worry about not moisturizing it like you would when your hair is loose in an afro. The main reason that you have to moisturize so often with an afro or a loose natural hairstyle is because more moisture escapes your hair as it is exposed to different environments throughout the day. But because your hair is protected in a sew-in, not as much moisture will escape. Just make sure to moisturize any hair left loose on top of your head to cover up the tracks. If you feel that you are spending too much money on sew-ins, I completely understand. However, do realize that the extra money spent on sew-ins will be worth the rate that your hair grows. Your hair may suffer a little bit of damage from the tugging and tension that a sew-in puts on your hair, but compare that to the damage that a perm can cause...
              When concerning the price of being natural, I think that there is a major problem if you are spending more money as a natural than you were when relaxed. So don't be concerned about the price, because I can guarantee that it won't be as much as your sew-ins. Going natural is all about trial & erorr so as a beginner you'll probably find that this is when you'll spend the most money. But as you find products that you like & as you discover what works best for your hair, you'll see that you won't be spending so much money. My advice is to find a friend who is natural & swap items. If you buy a conditioner that doesn't work out, swap it with something that she doesn't want and it's a win-win situation for both of y'all. Don't be shy...I can guarantee you that everyone has something sitting around in their bathroom that they no longer use on their hair. Or just ask your friend for a sample of her favorite hair product & if you like it buy yourself some! Some of my staple hair products started out as a little sample in a plastic bag that I borrowed from a friend. Also don't be so quick to toss out some of the products that you used when your hair was relaxed. They may still work just as well natural. My suggestion is that you start cheap & work your way up as far as prices go for products. The first natural hair products that  I used were Suave products. They work just as well as anything else (don't believe the myth that "certain products don't work on black hair"). Plus, you can't beat the $2 price. Or if you really don't wanna spend a lot of money, head straight to the kitchen. lol. You'd be surprised how many household cooking items work just as well in your hair. (ex: apple cider vinegar for a clarifying shampoo, honey & mayo for conditioner & olive oil/coconut oil for a leave in). But if you're not too comfortable with that and buying products seems more simple/safe, choose to spend the most money on your conditioners/leave-in. They are most valuable to the growth and maintenance of your hair. A friend of mine suggested that you also try Shea Moisture or Giovanni products, which she gets from target. They run from $8-$10. (For specific products that I use refer to some of my past posts. They are categorized by labels to the left). But your natural hair care routine should never put a dent in your wallet!
             As far as wearing  your afro for the first time, I always remind my friends who worry about how they will look that this is the hair that God blessed you with and it is beautiful no matter what shape, length or texture. That's the most important thing to remember when wearing your hair loose. Also, always remember that you wear your hair natural for YOU, not anyone else. In that case forget what anyone has to say about your hair. The hardest part about going natural is taking that first step out in public with your new hair. But trust me, you're going to be surprised at how many people admire rather than despise your hair. You'll feel silly for worrying so much! My suggestion is to wear it loose around the house for the first couple of days & experiment to find a style that you feel most confident with. Then if you're still not feeling too confident when you find the style that you like, wear it somewhere in public but not around too many people. For example the first time that I rocked my hair in public was on a walk at a park with my neighbor. I told my mom that, "I'm just gonna do it" and walked out the house without a hair band. My neighbor loved it & I enjoyed the attention from others. You'll find that each time it gets easier. I actually find it amusing to see how people react to my hair. Some people look amazed while other people look at me like they've never seen a black girl with natural hair before! It's hilarious if you ask me. This may sound contradictory, but the most important thing to remember is that YOU have to feel confident in your hair. When you exude confidence, others will sense that & in my opinion confidence is what makes you beautiful, not your hair.
             Finally, I know that it seems overwhelming to have to start all over again and create a new natural hair care regimen. But like I said before, trial & error is the only way to develop your own personal natural hair care routine & you'll never know what your hair is capable of until you try. Perhaps you can rock your fro for a couple of months & switch back to a sew-in for a couple of months until you feel that you've got a handle on managing your hair. My suggestion is to peruse through YouTube, other natural hair blogs, and natural community facebook pages.My favorites are curlynikki.com, naturallycurly.com & urbanbushbabes.com (but there are thousands of other sites as well).  There are sooooooooooooooooooooo many wonderful tips out there & so many girls/guys that are experiencing the same fears/emotions as you.   I created an account on YouTube & I add all of my favorite natural hair videos into a playlist and watch them OVER AND OVER. You'll find that each time you watch the video you'll learn something new...seriously. Don't be afraid to try new things. I always try new hairstyles on Saturdays (during the school year) or free days during the summer (just in case it doesn't turn out as planned). You'll see that with time it will get easier to manage your hair. Trust me, there are still times when I freak out because I still don't feel like I completely know what to do with my hair. Just remember that patience is a virtue (I think that expression was made to describe our hair haha!). With a little bit of patience & a little bit of time, you'll find that your hair isn't quite as frightening as it seems. 

I hope that this answers your questions & I have faith in your natural hair journey.

Keep it natural,
Jackie

Finding the right conditioner



How to find the right conditioner for detangling:

I've researched several sites & pulled together these tips.
  1. Read what the conditioner advertises. I know this sounds like common sense, but sometimes naturals are too quick to buy the first product that they read about on a blog. If the conditioner is made for color treated hair & you have virgin, colorless (not literally) hair, this conditioner may not work for you. Or if the conditioner is made for wavy hair & your hair is tightly coiled, this also may not work. You get my point...
  2. Separate the ingredients in your conditioner by this order: Weight (1st ingredients), Slip (2nd & 3rd ingredients) & Moisturizer (Ingredients other than the first 3)
Weight- which allows your hair to hang & defines your curls. Note that if water is listed as the first ingredient, it will not help to define your curls as much as if one of the following ingredients is listed first (But it's no reason to run & hide!)

  1.  cetyl alcohol- an emollient derived from coconut oils & palm oils which will soften your hair & provide slip.
  2. steryl alcohol- also acts as an emollient to soften hair
  3.   Also look for Benhentrimonium chloride, Quaternarium 18, Stearalkonium chloride, Certimonium Chloride

Slip- allows for easy detangling by helping the comb to glide through.
1. Behentrimonium Chloride
2. Stearamidoproply Dimethylamine


Mosisturizer- Water is the only true moisturizer (hence the reason why water is listed as a main ingredient in conditioners). However our hair is porous so water quickly escapes. In addition, we lack keratin (a water proof protein that helps skin/hair to maintain moisture). Thus, the only way to truly maintain moisture is by locking it in with an oil. Look for the following when moisturizing your hair:
  1. A fatty acid base such as avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil or coconut oil. Note: These items usually aren't listed as the first three items in a conditioner. However, if there are tons of extra ingredients in the conditioner, these ingredients are what you'll want to look for (instead of a whole bunch of ingredients that you can barely pronounce).
  2. Essential oils- sage, rosemary & lavender
  3. Refrain from using cheap oils like petrolatum, lanolin & mineral oil.
Protein- just as proteins nourish our bodies, they also nourish our hair. Proteins help to bind to hair follicles and fix weakened areas. The Science of Black Hair says that large amounts of proteins are found in "instant conditioners (v05, suave etc), leave-in conditioners & protein reconstructors.
  1. Examples of proteins- silk, collagen & animal proteins

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Skin Moisturizer Recipe

Hey Naturals,


It's summer time (praise God!). The weather is warmer and your skin is beginning to develop that summer glow. But don't be fooled! Summer is the season when we most often forget to moisturize and our skin remains neglected. Even though it's warmer outside and more moisture is absorbed in my skin from the air, I'm finding that my skin is still somewhat dry. Cocoa butter/coconut oil, my normal winter skin care saviors, seem too thick for the summer, while lubriderm and curel just don't seem to do the trick. So I mixed a couple of my winter moisturizers with my summer moisturizers and found my skin to be extra soft. 


Here's the recipe:

Ingredients
1. 2 teaspoons olive oil
2. 2 teaspoons coconut oil
3. Your normal moisturizer (I used lubriderm)


 Instructions
1. Squeeze a handful of lotion into a cup. Use a little less than the amount that it would take to moisturize your entire body.
2.Mix the coconut oil into the lotion & stir with a spoon.
3. Slowly stir the olive oil in with the spoon, smelling it as you mix. (I can't stand the smell of olive oil in my skin/hair so I only mix enough so that the smell of the lubriderm remains)
4. Rub it onto your skin at night & wear a long sleeve shirt/pajama pants overnight. This will lock the moisture in overnight & your skin will feel oh so soft when you wake up the next morning.


Keep it natural,

Jackie



Detangling Redefined

Hey Everyone!


I haven't blogged in forever so I'm back with some new tips.I've been super busy & tbh I have somewhat neglected my hair for the last several months. Studying, finals, boyfriend (well ex-boyfriend lol), and everything else came before the hair, but now it's the summer & I have nothing but free time to spend experimenting with my hair. Originally I wasn't planning on doing another "heat free" summer campaign like I did last year, but as the weather has become increasingly humid I'm beginning to give in & let my curls have free reign. To start off, I've made some adjustments to some of my hair care routines. One of the biggest changes has been my washing/detangling routine. So I'm basically "re-writing" my old detangling method & adding any new tips in red. I hope this helps.


Keep it natural,


Jackie


  • Only detangle your hair when it's completely wet and saturated with conditioner. Natural hair is very fragile and tends to snap easily when you are trying to comb through it dry.
  • Don't use a brush to detangle your hair. Instead use a wide tooth comb! Brushing your hair only damages it and makes the ends brittle. However, many naturals tend to use Denman brushes. I've never tried them myself, but if you're interested click here for more info.  Remember that your ends are your old lady hairs so you want to respect them just as you do your elders. 
  • Gently comb your fingers through the ends of your hair before you begin detangling (you can even do this while your hair is dry). This will get rid of shed hairs. Sometimes shed hairs tangle into your normal hair, causing your hair to snap off. When you feel a shed hair beginning to wrap around a normal hair strand, try to gently work the shed hair away. If that doesn't work, use manicure scissors to cut away the shed hair. Do NOT snap your hair off.
  • After you've removed shed hairs, hop into the shower. Section your hair into 4-6 sections and shampoo/condition each. 
  • Use a lot, a lot, a lot of conditioner while detangling. It makes it much easier. Look for a conditioner with a lot of slip. Ingredients like Glycerin, Stearamidopropyle dimethylamine, and Silicones such as Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane (these silicones will evaporate into the air. They're not the bad type!) Ingredients such as these will help the comb to glide smoothly through your hair when washing.
  • Always, always, always comb from the bottom up.  If you start from the top, this can also cause breakage to your old lady ends.  As you move up the section of hair that you're detangling, don't continue to pull your comb through your ends. This can weaken your ends. Instead move the knots towards the middle of your hair & after you have worked out all of the knots at the top of your head, you can once again move your comb through the knots in the middle of your hair & then down through your ends.
  • Finally rinse out your conditioner.